You probably should.
I do not make copies until my rebate value is $20 or more. I know I am taking a chance by not having proof that I purchased the correct item within the correct time period, and therefore if I am rejected, I really do not have any hope of making a claim. But that is my choice. I am just too lazy to scan everything and then follow-up on the phone if rejected for five bucks. Ain’t gonna happen.
However, on all my rebate (refund) submissions I write the words “copies made”. It is amazing how those two magic words have reduced my rejection rate. Maybe the clearinghouse figures “Why tangle with someone with proof?”
At what point should you should scan/save your rebate submissions? I would say to make a decision on what your pain threshold for losing a rebate, and more importantly, if you do lose the rebate at what point will you follow-up on the loss? Will you follow-up and call for every rebate rejection or check you do not receive after 12 weeks? If so, scan and save every rebate you mail in. This includes the filled out form, receipt and qualifiers (either UPCs, the UPC#, or some other requested item to be mailed in for the rebate).
Or won’t you follow up for a $3 rebate? $5? $10? Decide what you personally are willing to chase down via the clearinghouse and/or manufacturer and then scan anything for that amount or more. With a scan in hand even if you are rejected the clearinghouse or the manufacturer will make good on the offer when you can prove you did indeed fulfill the requirements correctly. Hubby scans and saves to PDF on his computer, deleting the scan when the check arrives. You do not have to scan and print to paper.
If you do need to chase down the rejected or missing rebate, many people start with the clearinghouse. You can find website urls and phone numbers at the bottom of the printable refunds (rebates) page. Personally I no longer contact the clearinghouse when rejected. I deal with the manufacturer. My reasoning is if the clearinghouse already rejected me, why deal with them? Although I do recall dealing with a clearinghouse regarding a rejection for some computer equipment. The woman on the phone tried to make every excuse why they should not/could not pay. After a few minutes, I asked for the UPC back telling her I wanted to return the product to the store. There was a pause, and then my rebate was validated “just this once as a courtesy.”
Hmmmm what was behind that?
Well, a few things. The clearinghouse only returned a postcard rejection instead of my entire submission. That immediately told me all the parts proving I sent in an incorrect submission had been shredded (or burned – this was a while ago, I do not think they can incinerate anymore). The clearinghouse could not return my proof of purchase which was technically my property since they did not pay me for the UPC. She really had no other choice but to pay me for that UPC she could not return.
So sometimes the clearinghouse call will work.
If you call the clearinghouse or the manufacturer, have all parts in hand: the rejection and your copy of your submission. This way when the UPC# is asked for, or the dated CRT is questioned, you can immediately refer to the submission.
And while you are filling out those forms, here are some tips for rebate (refund) organization.
Good luck and happy rebating!
{ 7 comments… read them below or add one }
I always scan all my rebates just to see what my success rate will be. I almost always get back every rebate I send in. Once in a blue moon, the clearinghouse does send back a letter saying something is wrong. Once they complained that one of my proofs was no good. Since I had made a copy of the UPCs, I noticed that one of my UPCs was slightly damaged although a human being would have been able to see that it was the correct UPC. I’m guessing that it may have been rejected by some automated scanner. The letter offered me a chance to submit a “good” proof and still get the rebate. Since these were Quaker oatmeal proof and I had lots of boxes, I just sent them a UPC instead of complaining about the rejection. I rarely follow up on rebates that don’t come but I make a mental note to never do that company’s rebates again. If the rebate is from a company that I’ve had success with in the past, I would follow up but that hardly ever comes up. A few years ago, there were a series of Advil rebates that had different box numbers but turned out to be the same rebate. Other than that, I can’t remember not getting a rebate from a company that has proven reliable in the past.
There is only one rebate I haven’t received. It was for the Tyson skillet dinner. I don’t know why, because I triple check everything before I send it in. I don’t feel it’s worth complaining about because I really liked the dinner, it was on sale when I bought it and I had a coupon. *shrug*
I don’t bother to make copies of rebate submissions. Too much work!
I copy every one and I will fight for every one. No rebate is too small. I will put on my headset and clip coupons while I sit on hold. I’ve probably had to fax proof 3 to 5 times over the past two years. My return rate is 100%.
I scan (in copy mode) all pieces at once, write the date mailed and tack it to my bulletin board. When the check comes, the paper comes down.
I once submitted a $60 rebate for some computer components I purchased at MicroCenter. The status on the company’s website said “in processing” for more than 8 months. Status never changed and no rebate was ever received. I printed out the status and took all my copies to MicroCenter and they gave me the money.
i never thought to do that, but i think instead of scanning them because that requires too much work i can just take a picture since it’s on the highest resolution and even the smallest print will still be readable. but thank you for the idea
I scan all rebates submitted. Doesn’t matter the ammount. I want my money back if owed to me. Rarely do I have a problem but at times there are.
I ahve had to resent several and then recieved the check. I like the idea of writing “copies made” on it. Maybe the next time I have a free stamp offer I will have one made up……
thanks,
Thanks so much for the info! I need a better system for tracking what offers I have sent and when I mailed them. My mom got a notice that she wasn’t going to get a rebate and I encouraged her to fight for it. She didn’t want to hassle with it, so not sure she ever got her rebate ($5). She said it wasn’t worth the trouble. I figure if it is worth keeping the receipt and filling out the paperwork, then it is worth fighting for my money. I will be sure to make copies and let them know I did so from now on. I may also designate one of my free calendars for rebate tracking!