Last week, I asked for end of your totals. During the course of the discussion, Jennifer asked a very interesting question, one that has plagued couponers for years:
When you track your percentages you obviously need to know the orignally cost and then the sale cost after you have used coupons.
1. Do you track the non sale price, buy it on sale, and use a coupon, so you see the total %difference from the most expensive to your price?
For example…Airwick are normally 13.99 each at RA. This week they are BOGO. My coupons are (2) $4 MC. Would you enter it as an original price of $28 for the two, or 13.99 for the 2 and then with MC I paid $6?
2. Do you count your +UP rewards as coupons in your tracking? If so, is it a separate column or in with your MC?
My response was as follows:
Jennifer what do YOU want to track? Regular retail, sale price, amount paid? Since you are new to this, I think that would be beneficial on some level – you will be able to see what the lowest sale price and at what price point you are willing to “buy”.
If you are not keeping a price book, this may be your second best option.
Ann
I firmly believe that anyone just beginning to get serious about saving and couponing should keep a price book for a minimum of two years. Yes, it is a lot of work, but a price book will prevent you from overpaying, and it will help you to recognize the minimum amount you need to buy on a “stock up sale” to get you to the next “stock up sale”. This is especially important with a frequently used household item that may never have a coupon. A great sale is the best you can hope for in some instances! Since sales are so regional, a price book will also help you become familiar with the sale-cycles of your local stores.
However, I do believe that keeping track of your totals and including the retail price of the item could be a shortcut to tracking prices.
For instance to track saving:
Amount due, coupon total, amount paid, tax
This will give you the basics of the amount of the order (after card if applicable), the total amount of coupons you used, the amount you finally paid, and ho much of that was tax.
A better minimum option might be:
Amount due before card, amount due after card, coupon total, amount paid, tax
What neither of these options will give you (obviously), is the items you purchased, their retail price or how much was paid for with reward coupon (+up, RR, ECB or gift card from a prior deal), and how many reward offers were earned.
By expanding to include these columns (product, retail price, reward), you could get a truer picture of what you are “buying” and what you are saving, and how much work you are putting forth to make these savings happen.
When I tracked my first 10 years or so, there wasn’t a Rite Aid +up, Walgreens RR or CVS ECB to earn or use, so I could not have used those columns. Also, there wasn’t a shopper’s club card to break out to even those totals until the early 90s (grrrr Wegmans), so that column was not applicable either. When I began it was:
Subtotal, coupon total, amount paid.
The same sales ran over and over, so keeping track of sale-cycle items wasn’t difficult.
I also did a LOT more rebating back then, because until the early 90s rebates were plentiful and paid well (grrrr P&G). Whatever my OOP costs were, they could be reduced by 100% or more (coupon moneymakers) when that rebate check arrived. It was delayed gratification as opposed to the instant gratification we have at the cash registers today.
So, what columns do you use? How do you keep track? Excel spreadsheet or a 3×5 card? Any input would really be helpful, especially to those just starting out!

















{ 20 comments… read them below or add one }
I have a savings tracker that I got from someones site let me see if I can find it and I will attach it
It is Angela’s, Suzie. thecouponproject.com
I think more the question is what do you track and why?
Ann
Thanks for starting this discussion Ann! I look forward to following it…and the price book thing with the index card made me stop and think.
So the idea of the price book is not just to track how high and low a price goes on a specific item but WHEN it peaks and drops so that we can plan and stock pile accordingly. Yes?
You want to know the low point of an item so you know when to buy. You are probably going to buy higher than necessary in the beginning. That is NOT a mistake, you just do not have a data point to compare to. The price book will give you data points that help (it is not infallible due to market fluctuations) you understand when the best time to buy in your area.
The price book ideally helps you track the lowest of the low. For an example, lets use this: canned tomatoes in a 28oz can. You use them constantly as you like to make sauce (the “you” is generic and does not point to any person). If the buy price in your area $1? $2? Are there coupons that makes that buy price even lower? When is the best time to stock-up?
It is basically a pain threshold. Free is easy… hmmm those toothbrushes are free, they don’t rot, I can easily get 50 free this week, so I do. THAT you do not need a price book for – you know you will get a frequently used item whenever it available for nothing.
The idea is EXACTLY as you put it Jennifer (and is especially essential for people with little room for a huge stockpile) – you want to know the peaks and valleys of frequently used household products to plan your stockpile accordingly!
Ann
OK…another question.
Do you find that you need to track highs and lows for the different stores? Or if Wegmans is at a low for pasta then Tops is too because it is a regional thing?
Or, would I track in each store separately?
And, does that mean I will take my time going through the store so that I can get my eyes on the prices of all the things that we tend to buy? Instead of hauling through and only paying attention to what is on my list?
Does there tend to be a cycle to the coupons that come out?
Really, I am starting to see the big picture. It may not sound it right now, but I am! (O:
It depends how detailed you want your information Jennifer. If you only go by sale ads, your Wegmans is going to be pretty empty. Everything will track a Tops sale cycle. On the other hand, I’m not sure Wegmans with their everyday low prices even has a cycle anymore! If you track that, I’d be curious to hear those results in two years.
Ann
I found one on Southern Savers website. I actually googles coupon savings tracker and it came up in the list.
I just started couponing so I can not wait to see some end results, or result through the year.
Debbie does it say what is important to YOU to track?
It is easy to make your own tracker, just do an excel spread sheet with titles and date and track what is important to YOU.
Heck when I did it I made my own ledger (computers were expensive in the 80s) in a notebook with what information I wanted. It was fast and simple.
Ann
I track in an email my purchases each month showing what I consider my coupon savings and my oop. Then at the end of the month, I total it up and track my average monthly spending and my bag refunds, for fun. I also track restaurants similarly. But for me, it makes no sense to track a $.99 2 liter as savings when I won’t pay over $1 for a 2 liter. WE will just use the crystal light mix or something. Even though Walgreens would say it is a savings of oh, I don’t know… $.25 or more.
I think a price book is an excellent idea. My DH and I are working on an Excel spreadsheet now and I plan to set the regular price as an average price (regular price as various stores combined to get the average). When I think about +UP Rewards, I consider them income when I receive them but calculate them as expense (same as cash) when I spend them.
The discounts like the current Rite Aid one where we receive $20 when we spend $100 is hard to formulate into the spreadsheet so we decided to do a 20% discount formula off the qualifying items.
If it works and turns out to be easy to use and understand, I’ll email it to you and you can post it for other readers if you’d like. Like everything else in my life these days… it’s a work in progress so it might take a while
My goal for 2011 is to track every cent spent and saved – all based on an average starting price. I’m going to try to deduct the cost of the newspapers if possible. Hmmm, starting to sound like a lot of math and work. I may change my mind. hehe
I subscribe to the school of thought that says “anything free is worth having.” I don’t spend a lot of thought tracking because I buy so much (already have TWO of the $20 RA resolution rewards and we’re only on day 3). Anyway, I stack as many coupons as I can, and if the result is free or nearly free, I buy it. Like your Airwick example. I picked up 4; two of the Starter kits ($12.99)and two of the i-Motion ($9.99). I used two $4 Starter kit coupons, two $3 i-Motion coupons, one $4 Adperk coupon, and one $1 RX video Adperk coupon. The result was $3.98 for FOUR and I got back one $3 +UPS reward, so all four only cost me $.98. I guess when you’ve been doing this as long as some of us have, calculating this stuff in your head becomes as natural as breathing.
I am just gathering information on couponing and am totally amazed at how some of you stack and find all of these coupons! I can only hope to aspire to this level one day!
Oops, slight correction to the Airwick deal scenario above. I actually got TWO $3 +UPS rewards for the four purchased, resulting in a profit of $2.02.
Not sure how to do this but I did keep track of virtually all my deals this last year and all I can say is WOW!!!!!
I’m sending you my spreadsheet just so you can see what I mean. I broke it up into categories. Regular groceries, other sales/rebates (rite aid, Walgreens, Wal-Mart) and department and specialty stores (mall, office supplies, movies etc.).
Yes I separated store q’s, Manufacture Q’s, and rewards/gift cards/ups to see what I actually had OOP. My starting price was the sale price regard less if it was a BOGO sale or not. Example: BOGO sale was 2/12.99 starting price was 12.99 due to I wasn’t going to buy a full price anyway. Now, I have been couponing and rebating for years but just not to the extent that I have the last two years.
That being said here are my 2010 totals I came up with.
Grand Totals Combined
Original Cost $ 16,640.66
Store Discount/Card Savings
/Coupons $ – 3,857.37
Total Manufacture Coupons $ – 4,239.72
Previous Rewards/gift
cards used $ – 1,704.69
Cost for Product _________________
at register $ 6,838.88
Rebates – Cash Back $ – 2,580.03
Rewards/Ups –
Received from store $ – 1,280.48
Final OOP after __________________
Rebates $ 4,282.83
Coupon Cost –
ie papers, mags, etc. $ + 235.84
Final OOP after _________________
Rebates & coupon cost $ 4,518.66
__________________________________
Total $ Saving $ 12,381.81
I’ve deside not to track going forward. I know it is worth all my work and that is all I need to know. And a side note: I just bought a new 18 cf freezer with some of the money I saved and paid CASH!!!! Surprized my hubby that I had the cash for it….. little does he know. Hee Hee
Thanks for all your help Ann….
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention all the stuff that I bought and donated for a tax write off. My estimate this year is about 2000 worth of deductions. yes I saved the receipts to back up this if I get audited.
Thanks
I kept track of my savings this year for the first time, and I was amazed. Thanks for linking up!
I have a really nice savings tracker I use. It calculates everything I need including % saved.. it even has a place for me to track rebates.
Every receipt I get has “TOTAL SAVINGS” and “COUPON SAVINGS”. by adding those two to what I paid (minus tax if you like) I can find out the original price.
I believe this is where I got it: http://thecouponproject.com/2010/01/free-downloadable-2010-savings-tracker.html
My husband and I have been couponing since about April and have seen some big changes in our lives, but it seems like it’s going to be difficult to track our “savings” right now. We were (and still are to some degree) living paycheck to paycheck and not really making it. We would go days without a decent meal and take leftovers from my parents house on Sundays just to make it through the week. Our 3 year old always ate, but not always real meals that a parent would wish for their child to be eating. We have fed our dogs scraps and leftovers because we couldn’t afford dog food…and so on…you get the point. Now, we have a full fridge and the pantry is getting there. Basically, we are seeing that we are spending the same $$ amounts, but just getting twice as much. This week is probably the first week that we don’t HAVE to grocery shop, but if we don’t then we can probably only go one week without shopping before we will have to buy again. I guess what I’m saying is that we’re not “saving” yet…we’re surviving at a higher level. Should we still start tracking our “savings” just so we know…?
Congrats Janet! Sounds like you guys are on your way! I felt the same way last fall when I started couponing…didn’t feel the savings b/c I spent every last penny of my budget, but I got sooo much more. It wasn’t until probably 3-4 months into it that I felt I could spend less because I had accumulated a sufficient stockpile.
Sorry…no answer to your question, just wanted to cheer you on and tell you that you are doing a fantastic job!
Thank you!! I actually did need some encouragement!! Hubby and I were talking at lunch about how different things look at the moment. I still need gas in the Jeep and we’re behind on daycare payments…but we have food in the house and it’s healthy food, for us, the boy, and the dogs!!! It can only get better!!! Thank you for taking the time to encourage me…I’m feeling better every day!!!